When you think of Todos Santos, spearfishing isn’t the first thing that comes to mind. The shoreline is often rough and there is a movement to save the turtles that lay their eggs on these beaches. However, tucked away there are some hidden coves great for exploring the underwater world with ample amounts of fish to hunt. One of the places that immediately come to mind is the abandoned Sugar Port with its clear waters and access to the water once the long hike is over.
Parking at the Sugar Port Trailhead, just south of Todos Santos and near the Hotel San Cristobal, we geared up for the adventure ahead. The trail winds uphill for a couple of miles, offering scenic views of the surrounding landscape as you climb. Along the way, the rustling leaves and chirping birds create a serene ambiance. At the top, the view of the old, abandoned Sugar Port is stunning. A fun fact: Todos Santos used to be a major exporter of sugar cane, and this port was where the ships docked to load their cargo. The remnants of this historic site add an intriguing layer to the experience. From the cliffs, we scoped out the turquoise waters below and got excited to begin our dive.
Hitting the water to go spearfishing at the Sugar Port in Todos Santos. Photo by Dalton Johnson
Hitting the Water
The descent to the water’s edge was straightforward, especially during low tide when the sandy pathway was easily navigable. The remnants of the port walls still extend into the water, creating an accessible and intriguing entry point. These weathered walls, now covered in marine growth, seemed like a gateway to another world. Suiting up in our Mako wetsuits, we splashed into the waves, ready to explore.
Kicking towards the old port walls, we began diving deep—about 20 feet—though even at that depth, we couldn’t see the ocean floor. The rock outcroppings became our guide as we searched for fish. The underwater world was teeming with life: schools of small fish darting between the rocks, vibrant marine plants swaying with the current, and the occasional larger fish passing by. Yet, the larger, edible fish we had hoped to spear remained elusive. Every dive brought its own set of wonders, from shimmering schools of fish to the intricate patterns of coral and algae decorating the rocks.
Swarmed by little fish not great for eating. Photo by Dalton Johnson
The Hunt
Just on the other side of the hill where we parked, commercial fishermen set out every morning to catch fish for the local restaurants, often bringing in tuna and other large species. We were hopeful that some of these bigger fish might wander into the cove. Despite our best efforts, they didn’t. Instead, we were swarmed by the ocean’s smaller residents, darting in and out of their rocky hiding spots, and starting to form a tiny bait ball around us.
Each dive brought new sights and the promise of discovery. We explored the nooks and crannies of the underwater landscape, hoping to catch a glimpse of something larger. However, a recent swell had churned the water, limiting our visibility to about 15 to 25 feet. Even with reduced clarity, the vibrant underwater ecosystem was mesmerizing. Schools of fish swam in synchronized movements, their scales glinting in the sunlight filtering through the water. Sea urchins clung to the rocks, and the occasional octopus peeked out from its hiding spot. We didn’t spot any fish worth spearing, but the sheer beauty of the experience made it worthwhile.
Wrapping Up the Day
As the sun began to set, painting the sky in hues of orange and pink, we decided it was time to call it a day. The golden light reflecting off the water created a magical atmosphere, making the climb back to our car feel like the perfect conclusion to the adventure. No fresh fish would be on our plates that night, but the dive was far from disappointing. Spearfishing isn’t always about the catch; it’s about the adventure, the connection to nature, and the thrill of discovery. It’s also about moments like these—where you feel a deep appreciation for the ocean and its mysteries.
Packed up and headed home without fish. Photo by Dalton Johnson
A Must-Visit Spot for Snorkelers
While we didn’t catch anything this time, the abandoned sugar mill near Todos Santos is a hidden gem for underwater enthusiasts. The easy access, combined with the remnants of the historic port, makes it a fascinating place to explore. The underwater structures create a unique environment teeming with marine life. If you’re a snorkeler or freediver, this spot should definitely be on your list. Strap on a mask, dive below the surface, and immerse yourself in the underwater beauty of Todos Santos. Even if you’re not hunting for fish, the vibrant ecosystem and historical significance make it a worthwhile destination.
Watching the sun dip below the Pacific Ocean at the Sugar Port in Todos Santos. Photo by Dalton Johnson
Spearfishing at the Sugar Port wasn’t about the fish we didn’t catch; it was about discovering a new spot, enjoying the dive, and experiencing the unique history and beauty of Todos Santos. Whether you’re a seasoned spearfisher or someone who simply loves the water, this spot has something to offer. The blend of history, natural beauty, and adventure creates an unforgettable experience. Just remember, sometimes it’s the journey—not the destination—that leaves the lasting impression. Every dive is a story, and this one was filled with excitement, discovery, and the timeless allure of the sea.
